Anatomy of a Ring

March 16, 2018

At Moores, one of our specialties is custom designing jewellery. As with all things, jewellery has its own language and knowing a little of it can really help you express your wishes to our designers. In this blog post we cover some of the terms we use to describe the various parts of a ring.

Centre Stone - This is the main and largest gemstone of the ring. The rest of the ring is styled around this gemstone, with other gemstones set to highlight this one. Depending on the gemstone used the centre stone is often the single most expensive part of the ring - this is particularly true for Diamonds and Emeralds. It is not uncommon for the centre stone to be worth more then the rest of the ring or even multiples of the rest of the ring.

Head - The part of a jewellery item that secures the gemstone. This is sometimes referred to as the setting.

Accent Gemstones - Gemstones within a jewellery design that are not the main focus, but instead accent or complement the center gemstone and side gemstones. Accent gemstones are typically comprised of melee gemstones.

Melee Gemstones - Classification used in the sorting of diamonds weighing less than .17 carats or 17 points each.

Gallery Rail/Bearing - The metal rim located on a head/setting, below the girdle of a gemstone.

Claw/Prong - Claw/Prong-Set is a setting technique in which a gemstone is held in place by metal projections or tines, called prongs or claws.

Side Stones - Gemstones that complement and place emphasis on the centre gemstone. Side gemstones are typically larger than accent gemstones.

Shoulders - The upper part of a ring shank.

Shank - A ring designed for, but stocked without a centre head and that is not complete without such head. The part of a ring that encircles the finger.

Sizing Area - The area at the bottom of a ring shank where metal can be inserted or removed to reduce or increase the finger size of the ring.

Bridge - The structural portion of a mounting that connects one side of the shank to the other.

Hallmark - a mark stamped on articles of gold, silver, or platinum by the Irish Assay Office, certifying the standard of purity/precious metal content, e.g. 375 for 9ct. gold, 750 for 18ct. gold, 950 for Platinum, etc. Typically stamped on a jewellery item in an inconspicuous location (back, inside ring shank, etc.).

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